Is Discontinued By Manufacturer : |
No |
---|---|
Product Dimensions : |
1.5 x 3.3 x 5 inches; 4.59 Ounces |
Item model number : |
HS200 |
Date First Available : |
June 1, 2016 |
Manufacturer : |
TP-LINK USA |
ASIN : |
B01EZV35QU |
Best Sellers Rank: |
#1 in Electrical Light Switches |
Customer Reviews: |
38,884 ratings |
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KB Wex –
I have installed 10 Kasa HS200 and 210 smart switches in my house, and I love how convenient and reliable they are. The switches are easy to set up and connect to your home Wi-Fi. It works flawlessly with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa, so you can control lights and fans with your voice. You can also use the Kasa app on your phone to toggle power, and set schedules and timers.The switch has a sleek design and a large button that clicks nicely. It has LED indicators for light and WiFi status. The switch, although very deep, fits in a standard wall plate and requires a neutral wire. The switch can handle up to 15 amps of power, which is enough for most lighting fixtures.The only drawback of this model is that it does not have dimmer functionality. However, if you want a simple and smart way to control your single pole lights, the Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200 is a great choice.You can’t beat the quality and functionality for the price.
Sam Kamel –
I have been a very happy user of Kasa devices for at least 3 years and now have 28 devices throughout our home. Thanks to Kasa we’re more energy efficient, safer and enjoying the happy conveniences of a smart home.I love their well-designed hardware – solid construction and sleek, modern, clean lines that fit well with our modern home. The devices were also highly reliable, working from the start and never failing in their steady, dependable operation.And especially I love their mobile app, intuitive installation guide and ongoing feature enhancements, seamless integration with Alexa, etc. As the CEO of an IoT software company, I even asked my development teams to look at Kasa as an example of what we should do for our industrial line of products. In my view, the Kasa installation guides are a best practice which our company had to adopt as well!Normally I’d stop there and say, “Great job Kasa!” and “Don’t hesitate for a second if you’re thinking of committing to Kasa for your own home!”But recently I discovered another side of Kasa / TP-Link – and I just had to finally lean in and write this customer review. I’ve never had an issues with a Kasa device until installing this motion sensor switch. I was looking for a way to automatically turn off our bathroom fans to save on electricity costs. Motors suck up lots of electricity and our teenage boys don’t think of turning things off, ever. 🙂 So I hoped that Kasa would ride to the rescue. But alas, I’ll admit, I was disappointed. For some reason the fans wouldn’t shut off using the motion sensing rules – which are easy to program by the way.Finally, for the first time, I decided I had to contact Kasa / TP-Link customer service for support. And I didn’t know what to expect. It’s not like many tech firms excel in customer support. But that’s when I saw a whole new side of the company… I am now not just a huge fan of their devices and software, but also of their friendly, effective and dedicated people!!!Thanks so much to Betsy and Tyrone (hope it’s okay to use your support names!) My emails were responded too quickly. Their suggestions for fixes were clear and actionable. And when it turned out that the normal fixes didn’t work, Tyler came through by getting TP-Link’s engineering team on the case… Another highlight of my experience I just have to share!It turns out the devices needed a firmware update, but that hadn’t yet been released for general availability. So, Tyrone was able to work with his engineers to provide a product firmware update to address our motion sensor problem – and it worked. He was always responsive, even proactive, following up to see if things had been corrected! He was very clear in his communications, and focused on getting this working with the full resources of TP-Link behind him.That, my Amazon friends and fellow Kasa customers – or future customers – is just magic. It’s one thing to buy products that always work … And it’s a whole new level to see a company so dedicated to customer satisfaction that they go the extra mile to fix a problem when inevitably, a problem does arise.My commitment to Kasa / TP-Link went up several and eventually we’ll have every switch and plug in home updated to Kasa so impressed I was by how they handled our firmware fix and update.THANK YOU Tyrone and Betsy – YOU ROCK!!Sam
AlarmGy –
I made the jump to a “Smart Home” a little over a month ago after Alexa joined our family. After talking to some friends, doing some research and assesing my needs I settled on TP-Link because of the variety of Smart products they offered, no requirements for a Hub, the lower cost and the ability to control everything from one simple app on my Smart phone and Amazon”s Alexa. I have not been disappointed. After a very short learning curve, I surprisingly found the installation and set-up of all the TP-Link Smart devices extremely easy and intuitive. I have installed several different Smart devices including three different bulbs (LB-100, 120 & 130) depending on the area, as well as, Smart Switches (HB-200) and Smart Plugs. All of it has installed, programed and worked with few problems. The only criticism I have is the Kasa App. I have found it to be a bit bugy at times, but since I use it primarily for programming and setting up new devices and scenes, rather than operationally, it has not been an issue since Alexa handels most of that work. So far, in the six weeks my Smart Home has been in operation I have only had one problem where Alexa and the Kasa app lost communication with most of (but not all) of my TP-Link devices. But after a bit of head scratching I was able to restore communication. So here’s a tip to remember: I first tried rebooting the devices by cycling the power breaker, but that didn’t work. Probably due to multiple devices signaling simultaneously and overloading Kasa. But, powering each device down for a few seconds then back up, and testing it before moving on ro the next one worked without a problem. I also recommend using a different control application. I only have experience with Amazon Alexa, but it also interfaces with Google Home among others. I have found that controlling scenes from Kasa not to be reluable for some reason, while issuing the scene commands to Alexa works 90% of the time, with repeating the command becoming necessary about 10% of the time. But even with an occasional repeated command being necessary, TP-Link devices respond extremely well through Alexa’s control. Plus Alexa is able to easily “group” multiple devices so you can control areas with a single command, or program macro activities that Alexa can perform with a single command. Capabilities Kasa does not have. This is another deficiency of the Kasa app. Without the ability to group devices or run macro routines, it relies on programmed scenes which are very limiting for operational control. So another controlling app like Alexa or Home is essential to the TP-Link Smart Home system. For me, because I have Alexa for operational control, both at home and away, these short comings in the Kasa app are non-issues. But if I didnt have this capability I think I would look to a different Hub controlled platform for my Smart Home lighting and device control.HS-200 Smart Switch: I am a retired electrician, so I found the installation easy. Most DIY homeowners with a basic knowledge of electricity and components should also have few problems with the installation. I found this Smart Switch easy to control and the installation is about the same as replacing a standard light switch. But, a big drawback is not have a dimming capability. To me this should be a no-brainer and i cant understand why this featire is lacking. Because that would makevthis a 5 star product. So before you procede there are a couple of precautions that should be noted. First, you must three wires plus the ground (usually bare or green), and one must be the neutral (usually white) third wire, or the switch simply will not work. This can be an issue in some older homes (and even in some newer ones too). The neutral wire is the “common” wire that runs throughout the house and is common to all circuits. It completes the loop in the circuit from the electrical box to the receptacle. The “hot” (or “line”) wire (usually black) carries the electrical load for that circuit only (usually 15-20 amps max). And finally, the “load” wire (usually black, red, or it could even be white) completes the hot side of the circuit between the switch and the receptacle. To save time and money some electricians when wiring homes “old school” would complete the light circuit by running the neutral to the light receptacle and then run a 2 conductor (plus ground) to the switch. So even though you may have a white and black wire at the switch, the white wire is not a neutral, but the load wire that that completes the hot circuit when the switch is turned on (closed). So if you don’t have 3 wires, one of them being the white neutral, you are out of luck using a Smart Switch. You can control the light however, by using Smart bulbs and then grouping them in the controling app (like Alexa). Another caution is wire management. Standard light switches don’t take up much room, so the original installing electrician had lots of room in the box to stuff extra wire. This is a luxury you don’t have since the Smart Switch is much deeper and takes up most of the box. The new switch also uses leads that are wire nutted to the circuit wires and not terminated on the switch itself. Because of this, it may be necessay to shorten the wires to make room in the box for the extra electronics and wire nuts. My advice is to open your intended switch boxes to survey your electrical wiring BEFORE you order the switches, so there are no surprises when it comes time to install. One last safety precaution. Be sure to turn off the circuit at the electrical panel (breaker box). Also don’t assume that all switches in a multi-switch box are on the same circuit. It is often the case that multiple circuits are in the box. This is especially true when a switch is controling a plug. So check all wires in the box with a meter to insure nothing is hot. Finally, when wire nutting multiple wires it is VERY EASY to leave a wire loose. This can be very dangerous, as loose wires can work themselves free and cause arking and sparking that can damage connected equipment, and worse, start a fire. This is a common cause of electrical fires, and you might not know there is a problem until it’s too late. So to ensure all wire nut connections are tight and secure, tug on each wire at the nut with needle nose pliers. If you can’t pull it loose it should be good to go. Also make sure there are no bare wires poking out of the nuts. The switches use stranded wire so it’s easy to have some stray strands loose outside the nut. So that’s about it. The install is pretty easy most of the time, but if you don’t think you’re experienced enough to do the job safely, put this phase of the job in the hands of a professional. It should be an easy job for any professional electrician, and should not be terribly expensive. Consider it cheep insurance!
OldChE –
I installed two of these, to replace the X10 controlled switches on my front porch and front garage lights. Installation was easy and they work great. The old X10 switches were controlled by powerline signals sent by a separate control timer box, but over the years this became unreliable. Also the X10 control timer was “dumb” in that I had to change the on/off times as the seasons changed if I wanted the lights to come on and off near the sunset and sunrise times. With the new Kasa switches, I simply told the Kasa app to turn them on and off with the sunset and sunrise times for my location, and it knows exactly when that is as the year progresses! You can even program an offset to the sun times if you like, say 30 minutes before or after sunset. I already had the Kasa app on my phone, since I got and use EP10 smart plugs on some lamps in the home, and they work great too. One of the HS200 switches found my WiFi immediately, the other had difficulty at first, but I followed the instructions and pushed the reset button on the switch and it then rebooted and found the WiFi right away. One thing to keep in mind is to make sure your cell phone is on the same exact WiFi network as the device, just for the initial setup, then the setup will go forward easily. In my case, I keep IOT devices like these switches on a separate isolated network, so I logged the phone into that first (a 2.4 GHz network), did the install, then logged the phone back into its usual 5GHz network. Another tip is to use plastic faceplates over them (not metal), so you don’t impair the WiFi signal. I replaced my old metal face plates with new plastic ones. Tips on wiring: Your old switch may be connected to only two wires (hot in, hot out) and this HS200 switch needs two wires (hot and neutral) plus ground. My old switch had only two wires, so I added a new 14-gauge white wire as a jumper to the several white neutral lines that were tied together in the box. 14-gauge wire can handle up to 15A or 1800W on a 120V circuit, which is enough for these switched circuits. One end of my jumper I added to the existing white neutral wires (all held together by the existing wire nut in the box). The other end of my jumper I attached to the white lead of the HS200 using the supplied wire nut. You could just directly connect the white lead of the HS200 to the wire nut holding all of the white wires, but I used a jumper to give me greater distance in my box (a two-switch box). One of the black “hot” leads of the HS200 I connected to one of the two wires that had been connected to my old switch, with a wire nut. The other black lead on the HS200 I connected to the remaining wire that had been connected to my switch, with the other wire nut. Finally I connected the green ground lead of the HS200 to my box itself, which is grounded to the house grounding system, through the metal conduits. You screw the HS200 back into the box, just like any other switch, attach the face plate, and then use the Kasa app to set it up. One final tip: The plastic faceplate that comes attached to the HS200 is on very tight and takes some force to remove. If you are not using the supplied face plate, you’ll need to remove it. There is a video on Youtube that gives guidance on how to hold and twist it off. Or, you can insert a flat bladed screwdriver into a slot on the bottom of the device, between the switch body and the face plate, and pry them apart with the blade. I did both approaches with my two HS200 switches, and both work well. Good luck!
dac –
I replaced all of my switches in my house after trying these. They really do work that well. They are stylish with a nice led glow on them and a dawn/dusk feature as well as timer. I have had zero of these fail of the 30 or so that I installed. Easy installation and integration with Alexa
Benton –
I LOVE this smart light switch! I first got one to replace my ceiling fan/light fixture switch because I grew tired of getting comfortable in bed, only to have to then get up and turn the switch off (First World problems, I know)Out of all of the smart plugs and smart bulbs that I own, this one has been the most reliable by far. It integrates with my Alexa routines perfectly, and if it ever lost internet connection (which it has yet to do for me even once) it still functions as a regular light switch.I’ve had a lot of dud smart products that require constant resets, and I am very pleased I haven’t had to deal with that for any of the 6+ Kasa Smart Light Switches I own.Installation was very straightforward, and once you get comfortable with turning off the circuit breaker, anyone can install these in their sleep
Evan D. –
The Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200 is a game-changer! Its setup was a breeze, needing no additional hub, and the straightforward installation process made it incredibly user-friendly.This smart light switch operates seamlessly without the need for a hub, adding to its convenience. Its reliable performance ensures a smooth transition to smart lighting, offering easy control and automation.For those seeking an effortless, hub-free smart lighting solution that’s easy to set up, the Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200 is an excellent choice. Its simplicity and efficient functionality mark a significant step towards a smarter home!
hojni –
We had older switch timers installed at mine & my mother’s house that worked OK, but were a real pain to program and adjust for time changes. Some of the old timers caused LED lights to flicker and lost their settings during even brief power outings. The Kasa switches are easy to install and solved all the problems of the old switch timers. Now, I can even monitor and adjust my mom’s light schedules remotely – if necessary. The Kasa smart-switches are basically set and forget.Way to go TP-Link!My only issue with the Kasa smart-switches is that the switch bodies (the part inside the electrical box) are a little larger than a standard decora switch and can be a tight squeeze in some installations.
W. A. Worden –
I have now installed 6 of these switches.The first was quite easy, and then adding them is a breeze. I installed two in a workshop about 50 feet from the house so I could shut them off remotely, should I forget to. Then as soon as they were installed, I realized that since I have an Alexa speaker in the shop. I can just walk in and say ” Alexa, turn on shop 1″ and it turns on the appropriate bank of lights.I had another brand that didn’t work, in order to get a toggle style to match what I had. These work great.
Palmer Ogden –
I bought 3 HS200 wi-fi switches that in need for a 3gang junction boxat my front door. They fit perfectly. 2 of the switches automatically connected to both my Alexa and my Google home, but I had a bad connection to 1 switch and it wasn’t working. I called for tech support and spoke with Monica Llamera. Monica answered quickly, even though it was a holiday, and took me through some troubleshooting. I had a bad connection on the return line to the light I was trying to connect. When I corrected that, the switch connected almost instantly. Problem solved. I couldn’t be happier! I will be buying more TP-link switches. Thank you, Monica.