Product Dimensions |
1 x 6.5 x 5 inches |
---|---|
Item Weight |
1.79 pounds |
Manufacturer |
Efergy |
ASIN |
B097TRZ4JM |
Item model number |
E-Max |
Customer Reviews |
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Best Sellers Rank |
#54,629 in Electronics (See Top 100 in Electronics) #1,364 in Computer Monitors |
Date First Available |
June 24, 2021 |
Standing screen display size |
7.9 Inches |
Resolution |
640 x 480 |
MAECENAS IACULIS
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Doc –
Unbelievable product – will pay for itself fast! Will work with solar but have to know limits of monitor and how to install. You must remember the sending units for this monitor work on an electrical principal of magnetic fields. When electricity moves through a wire it produces a magnetic field. BUT only AC current. As the electricity moves back and forth (AC means ‘alternating current’) the magnetic field is generated. If you install the sending unit on a power cord from say a freezer then you have “two” lines of AC current. As the electricity moves back and forth through two lines they cancel each other out. No magnetic field for the sending unit to find. Must install on one line which means finding the line in your breaker box. For DC (DC means ‘direct current’) the electricity moving through the line does not generate a magnetic field thus the monitor will not work on DC. Electricity from solar panels is DC.So how do you use this monitor on solar installations? I have a 7.2 kW grid tied solar array. All grid tied solar arrays have an inverter that changes the DC current to AC current. Find that circuit where it ties to the grid. This is likely near your power meter. Install the monitor sensors at that point. Will provide wattage generated by the solar array.I purchased this monitor after my local power company installed a new meter to track my total power consumption and of course send me bills. For over 3 years I have monitored my power consumption closely to ensure the power from my solar array was accounted for. After the new power company meter, my power consumption tripled. I could not find why. After installing the Efergy Monitor on my solar array circuit I found one third of my array was not working. Trouble shooting the array produced damaged insulation on a wire that shorted out that section of array. Fixed and power produced back to normal. Save big bucks there with the help of the monitor. However power consumption still high.I noticed my old upright freezer working a lot. So I installed monitor on circuit to freezer. This required finding circuit to freezer in the breaker box in house. Turned out freezer was consuming way more power than specifications say. Removed freezer and found damage so replaced. Helped a lot on power. Monitor saved more money.Began to monitor HVAC system. HVAC use 220V so installed both monitor sensors on the circuit to HVAC. This circuit in the same breaker box as freezer. Discovered HVAC using correct wattage when running. Monitored over several days and found HVAC running 15 hours per 24 hour day. This was way too much. Called a HVAC contractor and discovered leak in HVAC coolant system. Covered under warranty. Now HVAC runs maybe 4 hours per 24 hour day. Saved a lot of money this time.So how do you know how long something runs? Install the monitor and when an item like a freezer or HVAC is running write down the wattage from monitor. Do this a dozen or so times. Average your data to get the average wattage when running. At the end of a 24 hour day write down the total wattage used by the item and divide by the average. This will give you the number of hours of run time. I set the clock on my monitor to reset at 7:00 am instead of midnight. Makes it easier to read numbers instead of getting up at midnight.Installation in a breaker box is simple but as many reviewers say, if you are uncomfortable with this get help. I did install mine and replaced the box cover. Sending unit transmits just fine though the metal cover. I used a hand held clamp on multimeter to spot check numbers from the Efergy Monitor. It was always very close. I installed the sensors and monitor over a month ago. No problems with AA batteries.My only complaint is the ‘historical’ data gives total since last reset with is midnight or what ever time you tell it midnight is. Remember I have mine set at 7:00. So if you don’t get your previous day’s data before it resets you will miss that information. The monitor display shows humidity but I don’t believe the numbers. Without some sort of humidity device I think this monitor just estimates humidity from temperature.Summary: This thing works. It is very versatile. Installs easy. Easy to program. If you think through how your circuits are wired can be used to monitor many devises. Monitor is very sensitive – right now showing my HVAC thermostat is using 0.011 watts. I’ve recommended to others have purchased.
JWB –
I always buy my products for full price ($117 in November 2016) and never accept discounted products for reviews. My rating criteria is as follows. If the product works as is advertised and the quality is in line with the price then I give it five stars tentatively, then deduct stars for usability problems, functionality problems, flaws, quality, etc.I really wanted this in order to just measure electricity use of my stove. I have used Kill A Watt devices in the past and they aren’t capable of measuring 220V, so I bought this. What I learned is that although it is possible to measure just the stove, you still have to hook it up at the circuit box, and depending upon how much “slack” there is in your wires this still might not work.With my Bachelor of Arts degree, I surmised that I should just be able to clamp this around the cord. That did not work, which may not surprise those of you who did not major in History. So I went to the circuit box, and–not believing in electricity–was able to be protected from its dangerous forces long enough to clamp this around the wires that send magical electricity to my stove without getting shocked. Each clamp must only enclose a single wire or the god of electricity will reject your offering, and if you touch something without having made the appropriate ritual sacrifices, you may be struck dead so be careful.Once your clamps are in place, you must again invoke the Gods of Wireless technology to pair the display to the transmitter. For me, the pairing process was simple and quick. Each module is powered by batteries–and there is a setting to “refresh” the data at slower intervals, I assume in the interest of saving battery life.The display is crisp and easy to read, and the settings were easy to figure out. Initial quality seems quite high. It has a display of real time use, a weekly average and a monthly average, as well monetary costs and CO2 emissions associated with your electricity usage.I gave this five stars, because it does what it says it will do and does what it is meant to do well, however, it isn’t exactly what I hoped it would be–a way for me to measure electricity usage of my 220 appliances that a Kill A Watt doesn’t work on, but that I am interested in knowing about. For instance, I probably won’t change my life much depending on what I learn about my stove’s electricity use (I still gotta eat), but how much electricity does my hot tub use in December vs. July? Should I turn it off during the coldest parts of winter? This can answer those questions, but its not necessarily what it is made to do and you will need to dig into your breaker box, assume some risk, and hope there is enough room in your wires.My recommendation is that you need to think about what your needs are before you buy this relatively powerful but simple device. I’ve seen other reviews about using this for monitoring electricity in out-buildings, rental units, etc. I think its perfect for that, but if you are using this to charge renters for electricity or otherwise need it to account for true electricity costs, there are a couple things to remember. Despite the simplicity of the controls, electricity delivery and CO2 usage is fairly complex. Your electricity may cost more at different times of the day than others–and this device has a way to account for that–making it much more complex and accurate than a Kill A Watt.Likewise, if you really need to rely upon its CO2 feature, (I could see this being interesting in a classroom, or maybe you charge renters a carbon tax?) you need to understand where your electricity comes from–is it from a coal plant, natural gas, hydro, nuclear, etc..–and once again this device can incorporate those fine tuned details.However, if you are just looking for information, it may be a little expensive to be used as a consumer device just for information’s sake. Its pretty awkward to use it to measure a single circuit like I wanted to, but is possible.In conclusion, it seems to be a good device, but I would swap it for a more simple 200 Kill A Watt if possible.
Scott D. MartinScott D. Martin –
I bought this Energy Monitor because my home is all electric and my local Municipal Light (MUNI) company was introducing a new Time Of Use (TOU) rate schedule that I might be able to take advantage of to cut my already relatively low cost per kWh in half! My current flat rate is $0.125/kWh and if I pay by the 8th of the month they give a 9.0% rate cut to approx $0.115/kWh.The new TOU rate is:8:00pm – 4:00pm $0.063/kWh (20 hrs a day)4:00pm – 8:00pm $0.423/kWh (The Peak 4 hrs a day)I work in the solar energy industry and have known about and installed these types of energy monitors for many years and have been aware of the Efergy line of products during this time. I never had a personal use for one until now, and I decided to try this one because it was reasonably priced and provided the basic features I need which are primarily to:Monitor the Mains for Total Power Consumption in Real TimeHave the ability to set up multiple Tariff times and costs/kWh during those timesIt’s great to be able to walk around and turn on different loads in your home and be able to see their power draw. It’s easy to tell how much power my appliances draw when I turn them on, or as they come on automatically, as I watch the total household draw jump: Water Heater (4200 W), Well Pump (1200 W), AC (1000 W), Microwave (1100W), Toaster (1000 W).I don’t have a need to monitor any individual circuits as it is very easy to see what an appliance is using when it comes on. I can hear my well pump kick on, and watch the Mains wattage jump up 1200 watts. And I know when the power draw jumps 4200 watts it’s my electric water heater. Seeing your real time usage and costs changes everything and helps you reduce usage and costs.Because my hot water heater is one of my major power draws at 4200 watts I have an Intermatic Timer installed on it with trippers positioned to prevent it from coming on between 4:00pm and 8:00pm.Installation was straight forward. I installed it myself, but would recommend that anyone not knowledgeable or comfortable working inside their electrical panel have a qualified electrician install it for them. The most important thing you need to know is that when you turn off the Main Breaker in the panel the MAINS coming into the panel from the street are still live, and these are typically the wires you will want to put the CT clamps around.A few tips on the installation from my experience are:Tip 1On page 14 of the installation manual that came with my unit where it describes how to link the transmitter to the monitor it says “While the transmission signal symbol in the display flashes, push the button on the transmitter and wait until the transmission signal symbol becomes solid.”I interpreted that as – press and hold the button on the transmitter until the symbol on the monitor becomes solid, but that does not work. It should read “While the transmission signal symbol in the display flashes, press and release the button on the transmitter and wait until the transmission signal symbol becomes solid.”Tip 2The Time Set function on my Monitor is in 24 hour mode with no option to change it to 12 hr, so when you set the time be sure to keep that in mind. i.e. 6:00am = 6:00, 6:00pm = 18:00In reality this is a very simple product that uses proven technology and should work without issue if the installation is done properly and the transmitter to monitor range is within the technical specs of the product.So far mine has been working as described without issue since I installed it.See installation pictures attached.
WinnetkaCustomer –
After surveying the alternatives i picked Efergy as the vendor I would be happy with any of the Efergy models.All the vendors need to clip a Current Transformer (CT) pair around the two 120v main leads coming in to get good readings and this one also does.What Efergy does that I saw nowhere else was have a tiny external battery transmitter connected to the CT pair. The cleanest contact with your electrical panel.Everyone else has way more gear/wire next to the electrical panel and some with transmission issues also. I want the minimum wiring and plug-ins around my electrical panel – don’t you!! I want to do the minimum around killer voltage/current levels and i want a clean finished result around the electrical panel and not a big question mark, “what’s this?!” plugged in externally and connected to what is inside the hot electrical panel. Oh, and for those vendors that have “transmission issues”, No, i am not going back to fiddle with anything around the electrical panel, thanks.As you are reading this now, wanting high quality data that you control and are ok with more effort around the electrical panel, stay tuned – Efergy delivers on the data quality too.So, the good news above on the part of solution around the electrical panel. Here’s more detail and focus on that. After all it’s the two ~1/2 inch diameter hot 120v lines coming into the electrical panel. Detail and focus here is a good idea.A main breaker inside the panel does not shut off power to the 120v leads coming in, just the distribution from those leads. If you have a shutoff for the 120v leads coming in it will be back upstream where the meter is.I installed my current transformer pair on the 120v leads while they were “hot” and I had no main shutoff inside the electrical panel either so they were also “hot”.So, i had rubber tennis shoes on, rubber dishwashing gloves on.I removed the electrical panel cover over the circuit breakers – the three big leads coming in to the panel – two 120v leads and one neutral line.So, the objective at this point is perform two clip current transformers around two hot 120v lines, the single lead needs to exit the box (somehow), then put the electrical panel back on, then plug in the wire lead to transmitter, and this key part of the installation is done!!ok, if you were paying attention there are two details above that i skipped.first you need to mount the tiny transmitter. At least as a short term solution get some double sided tape and secure it to the wall or shelf within reach of the wire that will plug into it coming from the current transformers inside the electrical panel.second, figure out how that wire is going to exit the electrical panel. I cheated and decided to not screw down the electrical panel covering the breakers tightly to leave a tiny gap there to allow the wire to get out. The better way would be to use an available panel knockout inside the case provided for the hot wire conduit connects and then punch through your drywall outside the panel.ok back to the actual clipping operation in which you are holding your breath that nothing bad happens.- make sure clip the two 120v lines – not the one neutral line- make sure you have good clearance to clip and how the clip is going to reside in the case after you clip.- when you clip be aware of the one line that will be exiting the case.- what would happen if the line coming out dropped out of your hand and made contact with a live wire?!I have to thank efergy on this – you will notice the metal plug that will go into the transmitter is covered with a little plastic cover – to be removed only when you are ready to plug it into the transmitter. If they hadn’t covered that and you dropped it onto a live wire – guess what ??!! I suggest you tape that with electrical tape temporarily to the wall before your clipping operation so your two hands only need to hold the two clips destined for the two hot 120v lines. so you have your transmitter secured and your wire temporarily secured leaving your hands needing only to do two quick clip operations on hot then put the electrical panel back on.Now you are safe, relax, the important stuff is done. Few simple operations and you are seeing live data coming to your wireless display. A few more steps and as i recall a day of delay and he data collect is available online 24hr/daily/monthly.graphed quite nicely. Also for the folks like me who want their data. You can download 1 minute interval data into an excelbelow is an example – you will get an excell file for each month with thousands of reading, one per minute if you want the highest resolution.As folks have commented, the display device is great for walking around turning things on/off and seeing the usage change.Timestamp Power (kWm)3/1/2014 19:26 2.763/1/2014 19:27 4.783/1/2014 19:28 5.853/1/2014 19:29 5.333/1/2014 19:30 2.78I hesitated for a long time thinking i wanted individual readings for separate circuits. There is nothing preventing you from buying another to allow you to play with the analyzing a specific circuit. you are going to want whole house anyway and once you are familiar with one minute usage changes and whole house usage, oh I left the stove on, oh, i left the space heater on, oh the dining room light are on, oh the a/c is running a lot check the thermostat settings. So just buy it, get it going. stop analyzing which one to buy and start looking at what is using electricity.(note: if you live in an apartment or condo it’s possible you do not have standard residential 120v/240 service and you have 120v/208 service which is not compatible so check that.
JAD110 –
Great device. The two sensor version monitors total power usage for the typical 120/240 volt electrical panel. You do have to be very careful working in the electrical panel even with the main breaker turned off. There is still power coming into the panel unless you have called an electrician or the power company to have it temporarily shut off. If you don’t feel comfortable working around potentially lethal voltages, call an electrician to install the sensors.Once the sensors were installed, it was very easy to set up the transmitter and the receiver/control panel although the control panel did not sync up with the transmitter the first time I tried it. It was necessary to momentarily remove the batteries from the transmitter and repeat the initialization process before the two devices would sync up. Mine has since been working well for almost one year with no problems.Since my electrical panel is built-in and is flush-mounted into a dry wall panel, I decided to drill a 5/8″ hole into the top of the panel and then used the hole to route the sensor wires through another small hole in the dry wall in order to provide the connection to the transmitter module.One thing I did notice when I moved the two large feeder cables (to clamp the sensors around them) was that they both seemed loose where they connect to the electrical panel. This is a common problem with aluminum wiring. The cables expand and contract with temperature (and load) changes and can cause a fire if they get too loose. Luckily, I had a 1/4″ Insulated T-handle Alan wrench with which I was able to tighten the two contacts. Note that this is a very dangerous thing to do with the power still supplied to the panel. If your main power feeder cables seem loose, call an electrician unless you know exactly what you are doing. (Also note that not all electrical panels use 1/4″ Alan set screws to clamp the feeder cables). Again, if you are in doubt, call an electrician.
mack –
Clear screen
Patrick –
I bought one of these years ago. It finally stopped working, but lasted many years.Unit comes with 2 clampon current transformer. The unit has a 3 port capability but will require an optional extra clampon current transformerThey record many months of history.
Mike RileyMike Riley –
I have a 2015 Jayco Seismic and sometimes I stay at peoples property and the question of power usage often comes up. If you are a DIY person you know what it feels like when plans come together and goes right and you know how infrequent that happens. This device is it! Super easy to install and worked immediately. Power removed from RV dispalys zero Kw usage, power applied and dryer running to establish a baseline then cycling AC unit off and on for a while I can see instant Kw usage reporting. Historical features work really well. I am completely satisfied with this product. Hats off to these guys for making an annoying issue simple to solve.For RV’s I connected the sensors to the two 120V lines coming into the transfer switch. If you don’t have a generator you will have to follow your shore power up until it meets the Inverter/Converter and clamp there as the current demand before being transformed will be the truest source.
ken bonvillian –
This product does the job. If you want to know how much power your home uses when certain devises kick on for evaluating generator or other alternate power sources, this is the product. You don’t need an online account like other products, it doesn’t use WiFi and even when installed inside the power panel I get a signal over 50’ away! The thing is, the product that use WiFi and online accounts will not work during a power outage. The internet is usually down once their batteries drain. Unplug your internet if you have one and see how it doesn’t work. And those devices are monitoring and gathering your private household product since the “Sense” your appliances and types and collect that on a server. They are not doing that for nothing, believe me. So for a secure way to monitor your power consumption this is the product. The only thing I can say that need improvement is the power clamps are pretty bulky so if you have a tight panel, it can be tricky to install. Another note is the product has only battery power option for the sensing device installed at your panel so for me, I will have to remove the power panel cover to replace its batteries periodically. The indoor monitor box has a 12 volt adapter input but is not included in the box. Any beware of this product for less than $40, they are not selling you both devices you need. You need a power panel device and a monitor device with at least two pickup sensors. For my install it works perfect! I clamped the pickups around my power grid leads and generator input leads and it senses the power when the power grid is on or when I use my backup generator and that’s what I bought the product for so I can get the most out of my backup generators when my power grid is down. This product works! It may not be down to the amp accurate but it is accurate enough to know when your generator is loaded to its maximum when needed!
Stephen –
When the utility company notified me that my electricity usage is far above normal, I set out to track down the source of the excess consumption. I read lots of reviews of home energy monitors and discovered that there are two major categories: whole house monitors and individual device monitors.Individual device monitors like the are great to measure a lamp or window air conditioner. They are better than a whole house monitor for precise measurement of a single device. Where they fall down is getting the big picture of total energy consumption and measuring devices that don’t plug into the wall, like a furnace or whole house air conditioner. That’s where the Efergy Elite Wireless Electricity Monitor comes in.The reviews can be confusing. I finally settled on the Efergy Elite Wireless Electricity Monitor based on a review that touted it’s ease of installation and simplicity of operation. Getting into the breaker box seemed a bit intimidating, but the process couldn’t have been easier. I spent most of the time opening the box and unscrewing the cover. Once the wiring was exposed it was a simple matter of placing the sensors over the mains and fastening the latches, 60 seconds maximum.The breaker box is outside the house and I had no way of bringing the transmitter inside. The only option was to leave it inside the breaker box where it would be protected from the weather. I was concerned that the metal enclosure would interfere with the signal. I was relieved to see that the monitor immediately picked up the signal next to the box. When I went inside the house the monitor continued to reliably update the usage information every ten seconds. I walked to the furthest point from tShe box and the information still updated perfectly. You will have no problem getting the signal anywhere in your house.Some of the other monitors connect to the internet and and can be monitored remotely. After thinking about it I realized that I would have little or no use for remote monitoring. In addition, an internet connected system would add multiple points of failure: wife to the router, cable modem to the ISP, connection to the seller’s website, the seller’s website itself and the connection back to me. I battle enough with “technical difficulties” and didn’t see any reason to throw more problems into the mix.I am delighted with the Efergy Elite Wireless Electricity Monitor and continue to use it daily. Based on changes I have already made it will pay for itself in a few months and I will continue to reap savings for years to come while reducing my carbon footprint.